Mount Lhotse Expedition (8516m)-56Nights/ 57Days

Mount Lhotse Expedition (8516m) Cost, Detail Itinerary, And Climbing Route Map

Towering at 8516m above sea level, Mount Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world. The Lhotse peak is adjacent to Mount Everest and separated by South Col. Lhotse is a Tibetan word that means “South Peak”. The Lhotse mountain has sister peaks called Lhotse Middle (8414m), Lhotse Shar (8383m).

Mount Lhotse climbing follows the same route as of Mount Everest and diverse before reaching the south col, after the yellow band turning right and further up to Lhotse face. The final part of the climb goes through narrow Reiss couloir. The couloir is a massive ice gully that rises as steep as 80 degrees and makes the most difficult part of the climb along with Yellow ban and Geneva Spur. Mount Lhotse is part of the Mahalangur Himalayan Range which is stretched along the northern border of Province no.1 of Nepal.

The Mt. Lhotse Expedition starts from Kathmandu flying to Lukla then starts to Trek along the Dudh Koshi river. It takes six to 8 days to reach Lhotse Base Camp which is on the northeast side of Kala Pattar hill (5545m). After flying to Lukla we’ll walk through several Sherpa villages, Mani, Chhortens, Buddhist Monasteries, etc. The first night of the trek we’ll be staying in a village called Phakding which is on the bank of the Dudh Koshi river. It’s a beautiful village with several local houses and some lodges. Here you can try Sherpa Tea- possibly the first time in your life. Before reaching the village we’ll pass by suspension bridges, waterfalls, and several carved rocks with Buddhist Sculptures along the route.

The Khumbu region is very rich in culture and biodiversity. The first day would be kind of an easy trek of a three to four hours walk. The second day would be a bit longer and higher up. We’ll be ascending about 800m from Phakding and reaching the height of 3440m, Namche. Namche is the largest settlement in the Everest region. At Namche, we’ll be spending one more day for acclimatization purposes. While staying at Namche we’ll be doing a day hike to Khumbu village or Everest view hotel which is at 3880m height. Our next stop would be Tengboche. The Tengboche village has a beautiful ancient monastery. You also can do meditation inside the monastery and it gives you a sheer feeling of peace and tranquility. From Tengboche, we’ll go through two beautiful villages called Pangboche and Somare before reaching today’s destination- Dingboche. Dingboche is a large and picturesque village with farms in the Backyards and on the eastern side of the village is a huge and beautiful Mt. Ama Dablam (6812m) towering over the blue sky. On the northeastern side Island peak (6189m) which is very popular among the new climbers before they try eight-thousanders. And on the southwest Mount Cholatse (6440m) smiling at you. At Dingboche, we will be spending one more day acclimatizing and will do a day-hike. We’ll climb to a hill called Nangkartshang (5100m) or hike to Chhukung village(4730m). Next day we’ll head towards Lobuche which is a 5-6 hrs walk from Dingboche.  And from Lobuche we can reach the Lhotse Base Camp (5364m) in one day, passing by Gorakshep. Hereinafter we’ll begin our Training, Proper Acclimatization, Rotation to the higher camps & Summit Push preparation.

 Mount Lhotse Expedition History: 

In 1955 International Himalayan Expedition attempted to climb Mt. Lhotse. They had reached 8100m high but had to retreat because of the then-believed unclimbable western Cwm and Yellow band and also because of strong wind. But they successfully climbed several smaller peaks in the Khumbu region. They had hired over 200 local porters.

On 18 May 1956 Fritz Luchsinger & Ernst Reiss from Switzerland climbed the Lhotse Mountain successfully for the first time. Since then it has been climbed by several expedition groups and individual climbers. Till now hundreds of mountaineers have reached the summit. The mountain has become a cheaper alternative to Mount Everest as almost all the scenery, Routes, and climbing experience is similar but the height is slightly below Everest ( Lhotse- 8516m whereas Everest- 8848m).

Major Peaks Nearby Mount Lhotse :

There are dozens of high mountains surrounding Mount Lhotse, if not dozens then there should be Hundreds. Some of them are:

–  Mount Everest: 8848.86m

–  Mount Nuptse: 7861m

– Pumori Mountain: 7161m

– Cho Oyu Mountain: 8188m

-Mt. Makalu 8485m

– Imja Tse Peak: 6189m

– Mera peak: 6476m

– Kyajo Ri Peak: 6189m

– Taboche Peak: 6542m

– Mt. Thamserku: 6623m

– Kangtega Mountain: 6782m

– Cholatse Peak: 6440m

– Lobuche Peak (6119m)

– Baruntse Mountain: 7129m

– Kusum Kangaru Mountain: 6367m, etc.

Climate & Geography of Lhotse Region (Khumbu Region):

The climate in this region can be divided into 6 categories, from Tropical to Trans-Himalayan high Pastures:

i.) Tropical: Below 1000m

ii.) Sub-tropical: 1000-2000m

iii.) Temperate Zone: 2000-3000m

iv.) Alpine Zone: 4000-5000m

v.) Meadows and Arctic Zone: above 5000m

People in Mount Lhotse Climbing Region (Khumbu Region):

The majority of people are Sherpa people in this region. However, in the lower parts of the Lhotse region, you may see some other ethnic groups of people. Sherpa people are famous for their bravery and strongness in the high Himalayas. Most of the high ascent world records are on their names. They are also nicknamed Himalayan Climbers.

Flora & Fauna in Khumbu Region (Lhotse Region):

There are several highly endangered species of animals, including Snow Leopards, Red Pandas, and several mammals eg. Lynx, Asian Black Bear, Grey Wolf,  Dhole, Assam Macaque, Himalayan musk deer, Blue Sheep, Himalayan Tahr, Mainland Serow, Himalayan Goral, Wooly Hare, Horseshoe bat, Himalayan mouse-hare, black lip pika, etc. There are over 110 species of birds found in this area, 33 different types of mammals, 11 species of butterflies, 3 kinds of reptiles. Hunting is banned here. Some of the birds you can spot in this area: Golden Eagle, Eurasian, Griffon, Himalayan Griffon, Blood, Impeyan, Kalij, Koklass, Pheasants, Himalayan snow cooks, crimson horned pheasant, etc. Rhododendron & Himalayan Blue pine can be seen covering the forest.

Trekking Routes in Khumbu Region (Lhotse Region):

There are varieties of Trekking Route options in this region, eg. :

i.) Gokyo Trek

ii.) Three Passes Everest Trek

iii.) Everest Base Camp Trek

iv.) Everest Panorama Trek 

v.) Chola Pass Trek

vi.) Amphu Lapcha Pass Trek, etc.

Risk Factors:

– Seracs, Crevasses & Shifting blocks of Ice

– Avalanche & Icefall

– Cold

– Strong wind

-High Altitude sickness, etc.

Equipment/ Gears for Lhotse Expedition:

• ICE AXE (A GENERAL MOUNTAINEERING ICE AXE):

The size of Ice axe according to the person’s height:

Up to Height 5 ft 2” : 50cm ice axe

Height 5ft 3” to 5ft 5” : 55cm ice axe

Height 5ft 6” to 5ft 9” : 60cm ice axe

Height 5ft 10” to 6ft : 65cm ice axe

Height 6ft plus: 70cm ice axe

• CRAMPONS:

We recommend Modern steel 12-point Crampons with anti-balling plates. We don’t recommend 10-point aluminum single-piece rigid crampons.

• ACCESSORY CORD: 40ft of 6mm (to be used for Prussiking and climbing rigging)

• CARABINER SYSTEM: 

2 Large oval wire gate carabiners

2 Smaller wire gate Carabiners

1 Large pear-shaped  locking screwgate Carabiner

1 Large locking Carabiner (can be auto-locking)

• ALPINE CLIMBING HARNESS:

– must fit all of your clothing

– should have adjustable leg loops and waist belt

– can separate at the legs and with the belay loop

– we don’t recommend the “doubling back” feature at your waist

• BELAY DEVICE:

– We recommend a modern tube-style belay device

– We don’t recommend super-specialized belay devices (super-specialized belay device doesn’t accept a wide variety of rope diameters)

– we suggest Black diamond Guide ATC or Petzl Reverso

• TREKKING POLES:  We recommend collapsible Trekking/ Skiing poles with snow baskets and three-section varieties.

• ASCENDER:According to your dominant hand- left or right. Must be of good quality.

Clothing For Mount Lhotse Climb (8516m) ;

• BASELAYERS TOPS & BOTTOMS:

– 2-3 Lightweight base layer Pants ( non-cotton fabrics or merino wool or polyester)

– 2-3 Long Sleeve shirts

– A long sleeve sun shirt ( Light-colored, hooded, and made of merino wool or polyester)

• TREKKING PANTS:We recommend  1-2 lightweight nylon or synthetic fabrics trekking pants. Simple one fine
• SOFTSHELL PANTS: we recommend stretchy, comfortable, and non-insulated that should fit comfortably with or without your baselayer bottoms.
• HARDSHELL PANTS: We recommend non-insulated, fully waterproof shell pants that must fit comfortably over baselayer bottoms and softshell pants. Full-length separating side zipper recommended.
• SOFTSHELL JACKET: werecommend breathable but wind and weather-resistant hooded jackets. The jacket must fit well over mid layer top and baselayer top
• MIDLAYER TOP: Werecommend a midweight or lightweight, form-fitting grid fleeces layer for use over a baselayer. Hooded is recommended and fleece generally provides a warmth-to-weight ratio. So, it’s good.
• HARDSHELL JACKET: We recommend a non-insulated, fully waterproof shell jacket. Durable three-layer fabric with a hood and must fit comfortably over your baselayer. mid-layer, softshell, and lightweight insulating layer as well. We recommend a helmet-compatible hood
• INSULATED HOODED JACKET: we recommend light down or synthetic hooded (Synthetic insulation does retain warmth when wet whereas down feathers are more comfortable for packing and light-weighted)
• INSULATED DOWN PARKA: We recommend heavily insulated with high-quality down fill with a weight between 1.5 to 2.5 ponds and with hood.
• EXPEDITION DOWN PARKA: We recommend this down parka must be in excellent condition and fully baffled. Nixon Down Wash gives maximum loft to the down parka, so we recommend checking whether it is recently cleaned up.
• EXPEDITION DOWN PANTS: we recommend heavily insulated down pants comfortably fitting over all other inner layers. Thus down pants must be weatherproof.
• DOWN SUIT: This down suit is optional to Down Parka & Down Pants. You can have either Down Parka plus Down Pants or Down Suit.
• INSULATED SYNTHETIC PANTS: We recommend synthetic insulated pants with full-length separating side zips. We don’t recommend ski pants.
• LIGHTWEIGHT LINER GLOVES: We recommend lightweight woolen or synthetic liner gloves with a comfortable fit and lighter colors that absorb less sunlight and offer UV protection.
• INSULATED SHELL GLOVES: werecommend a pair of warm shell gloves with a durable leather palm.
• EXPEDITION MITTENS: Wehighly recommend expedition-rated mittens with an insulated removable liner and the warmest model available.

HEADWEAR FOR MOUNT LHOTSE (8516m) CLIMBING:

• CLIMBING HELMET:we recommend a lightweight climbing-specific helmet that must comfortably fit over your hat or balaclava and the headlamp must be able to strap securely to the outside rim of the helmet.
• BUFF:we recommend a good quality UV Buff which can be used for a multitude of purposes.
• SUN HAT: We recommend baseball caps or sombrero-style sun hats.
• BALACLAVA SYSTEM: We recommend one heavyweight and one lightweight which can be comfortably layered together
• WOOLEN SKI HAT: We recommend no-cotton wool or synthetic hat which covers ears comfortably
• FACEMASK: we recommend neoprene models
• GLACIER GLASSES: We recommend high-quality glacier glass with full coverage of eyes and across the nose.
• SKI GOGGLES:We recommend high-quality goggles for sun and wind protection at higher altitudes with no more than 30% VLT (Visible Light Transmission). And if possible with photochromic models which is ideal for light changing conditions.
• NOSE GUARD:We recommend bringing a nose guard for better protection of your nose while being at a high altitude.
• HEADLAMP: We recommend an LED outdoor headlamp of 200-300 lumens of output. Please add some spare batteries. And it’s recommended to choose with weather-resistant models
• DOWN SLEEPING BAG (-20 degree Fahrenheit ): We highly recommend a down-filled sleeping bag of good quality.
• DOWN SLEEPING BAG (-40 degree Fahrenheit): we highly recommend a down-filled sleeping bag of a good quality
• 70 LITER CLIMBING PACK:We recommend Light and Simple with crampon and ice axe attachment points.
• 30-45 LITER TREKKING PACK: We recommend with an internal frame, Light and simple Pack
• FOAM PAD: We recommend as per your body length
• INFLATABLE SLEEPING PAD:We recommend a full-length sleeping pad. And please bring along the valve repair & body patch kits.
• SPOON:We suggest a longer spoon stem which can help eat while wearing gloves and it’s better made of durable hard plastic or anodized metal
• MUG: We recommend 12 to 20 OZ capacity with insulated outdoor-style having a removable lid and spill-resistant
• POCKET KNIFE: Should be medium-sized, Simple, and light
• PEE BOTTLE: 1L – 1.5 Liter either collapsible or hard-sided gene model
• BOWL: We recommend a two-cup capacity packable bowl with a lid like a Tupperware
• PEE FUNNEL FOR WOMEN: We recommend practicing it before the expedition starts
• WATER BOTTLE PARKAS: We recommend bringing two fully insulated water bottle parkas with a zipper opening
• WATER BOTTLE: We recommend you bring two water bottles with a wide mouth made of BPA-free plastic (Co-polyester) with a capacity of 1-1.5 liter each. We don’t recommend water bags or bladder bags which tend to freeze at a higher elevation.
• THERMOS:We recommend vacuum-insulated thermos with wide-mouthed and with a capacity of 1 liter
• TRASH COMPACTOR BAGS:We recommend three plastic garbage bags or a reusable waterproof pack liner to use as waterproof packsack liners
• TOILETRY BAG:To keep tissue paper, toothbrush/paste, wet wipes, shampoo, soap, etc. For females, it is recommended to prepare enough numbers of feminine hygienic products.
• WATER PURIFIER:Steri-pen or Aquamira drops. Four to six liters of water every day for personal consumption.
• SUNSCREEN: We recommend four to five ounces of 5 plus SPF sunscreen. Don’t forget to check the manufacturing date because the SPF effectiveness fades away over a time duration.
• LIPSCREEN:At least 30 plus SPF lip screen with the newest manufacturing date.
• PERSONAL FIRST-AID KITS (small one): With painkillers (Tylenol, Ibuprofen), First-aid tape, moleskin, antiseptic wipes, Pepto Bismol, Cipro (500mg), Metronidazole, Diamox, Z-pack, etc.
• PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION: We highly recommend bringing Personal Prescriptions along with you.
• Furthermore, we suggest you bring Hand Sanitizer, Face mask, Hand & Toe warmer, Power bank or Solar charger, extra batteries, etc.
• Travel clothes while in the city

OPTIONAL: Snacks, Dry fruits, a journal, a tablet, earphones, books, etc.

How Long Does It Take To Climb Lhotse Mountain (8516m)? :

Well, climbing a high mountain is a long and gradual process, and it may vary on weather conditions and physical strength. And Mt. Lhotse is not an exception. In general, it takes around Eight to Ten days to reach Lhotse Base Camp after spending a few days in Kathmandu. And at the Lhotse Base Camp, you’ll spend around six weeks for Training, Proper  Acclimatization, Rotation to the higher camps & Final Summit Push. One of the intentions of staying at Lhotse Base Camp for so long is getting used to cold weather, harsh environments, and being familiar with the mountain you are going to the summit. However, the Lhotse Climbing Itinerary may differ according to the weather conditions and climbers‘ adaptation to the environment and other issues. So, overall in general it takes 8 to 10 weeks for the whole process of the Lhotse Expedition.

Why Should “APEX NEPAL TREKS” be Chosen For Lhotse Expedition?

We are a group of Sherpa Climbers who have long experience of Climbing the High Mountains. We have successfully climbed several high mountains including Mt. Everest (8848.86m), Mt. Manaslu (8163m), Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167m), Mt. Ama Dablam (6812m), Mt. Cho Oyu (8188m), Mt. Kanchenjunga (8586m), Mt. Lhotse (8516m), Mt. Annapurna (8091m), Mt. Makalu (8485m), Mt. K2 (8611m), etc. We have world-recorded Sherpa climbers. And we are good at taking care of our clients with safety concerns and helping them to reach the summit with lesser difficulties. We provide quality services along with varieties of food items. We only use branded equipment for climbing purposes, because your safety is our concern. The success of any expedition depends largely on a carefully planned itinerary, experienced Leaders & Sherpas who are kind as well as helpful, Quality food, and adequate training plus instructions. Trust us, we are excellent in all these ingredients.

And we “APEX NEPAL TEAM” care about the environment. Our activities are less impacting the environment and we also suggest all our clients not to harm our precious and fragile environment. We respect nature, so every time before climbing, we worship the Nature-God for forgiveness and make our expedition successful without harming any member of our team. We also support sustainable tourism and support through a foundation called “Foundation Apex Nepal” which supports the underprivileged communities and runs programs related to environmental protection.

And after all, we value your hard-earned money.

Best Time To Climb Mount Lhotse (8516m) Expedition :

Spring Season (March-April-May)  & Autumn Season (September- October- November). In these two seasons, the Climbing window opens up. In these months nature awakens making the lower parts greenery with beautiful waterfalls. At this time the weather is mostly clear with blue sky and not so cold with the least snowfall. For particularly Mt. Lhotse, most of the climbers choose Spring Season. And our suggestion is the same.

o    Spring Season: March- April- May

o    Autumn Season: Sept-Oct- November