Ama Dablam (6812m) Expedition-26Nights/ 27Days

Destination: Ama Dablam
Activities: Climbing & Trekking
Trip Grade: C
Departure from: Kathmandu
Arrival on: Kathmandu

Group size: 1-12 Pax
Best Seasons: March- April- May & Sept- Oct- Nov
Meals: All Meals During the Expedition Period
Accomodation: Hotel & Tented Camp
Transportation: All Transportation

Ama Dablam (6812m) Expedition:

Situated in the Khumbu region of Mahalangur Himalayan range inside Sagarmatha National Park, Ama Dablam mountain is one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. Literally meaning “Mother’s Necklace” in the Sherpa language is a beloved mountain among the Sherpa community. The mountain’s shape is like stretching both arms on each side protecting her child and a beautiful Dablam hanging on her neck. Dablam is a Traditional Double pendant generally worn by Sherpa women. It contains pictures of gods and goddesses. Once described as an “Unclimbable Mountain” by Edmund Hillary, Ama Dablam mountain is regarded as a Matterhorn of Asia. The mountain has been used as a Logo by several International Companies and also by Apple Phone as a wallpaper in their IOS7 phones.

The mountain was first climbed in 1961 on May 13 by a team of an Expedition which includes climbers from New Zealand (Mike Gill & Wally Romanes), the UK (Mike Ward) & USA Barry Bishop). Since then it has climbed several times in a year. The mountain is 152km northeast of Kathmandu and Southeast of Mt. Everest (8849m). Ama Dablam is the third most popular mountain among the mountaineers to climb in the Himalayas. The achievement and the satisfaction are non less than conquering Mt. Everest.

The Ama Dablam Expedition starts from Kathmandu flying to Lukla and then starts to trek. It takes 4 to 5 days to reach Ama Dablam Base Camp which is on the eastern side of Dingboche Settlements. From Lukla, you’ll walk through a trekking route going through several Sherpa villages, mani, Choortens, Buddhist Monasteries, etc. The first night of the trek you’ll be staying in a village on the bank of the Dudh Koshi river. The village is called Phakding. It’s a beautiful village with several houses and some lodges. Here you can try Sherpa Tea- possibly the first time in your life. Before reaching the village you’ll pass by Suspension bridges, Waterfalls, and several carved rocks with Buddhist sculptures along the route. The Khumbu area is very rich in culture and biodiversity. The first day would be kind of an easy walk of three to three and a half hours. The second day would be a bit longer and higher up. You’ll be ascending about 800m from Phakding reaching 3440m elevation, Namche. Namche is the largest settlement in the Khumbu region. Here you’ll be spending one extra day for acclimatization purposes. We’ll be doing a day hike to Khumbu village or hike to Everest View hotel which is at 3820m height. The next stop would be Tengboche. a beautiful small village with an old monastery. You can do meditation inside the monastery. It gives a special feeling and peace of mind. After Tengboche, we’ll reach Ama Dablam Base Camp and start our Expedition Rituals hereinafter.

The view from the Summit of Ama Dablam is beyond your imaginational beauty. We’ll have a 360-degree view of high mountains which are mostly above 6000 meters high and some of them eight-thousanders. And one of them is the highest on the planet, Mt. Everest 8848.86m. After completing the Summit we’ll be walking down through the same route, but this time would be much faster because the route would be mostly going downwards. And fly back from Lukla to Kathmandu which is about 35 minutes flight in a twin otter plane.

Mount Ama Dablam (6812m) Expedition History:

The first climb in 1960 by a team led by Sir Edmund Hillary was branded unauthorized. But right after that in 1961a group team which included climbers from New Zealand, Uk & the USA made the successful climb making the news viral worldwide and received much praise from mountaineer communities. The members of that team were Mike Gill, Wally Romanes, Barry Bishop & Mike ward. Hereinafter the mountain has been climbed hundreds of times in the span of 60 years. And now it is one of the Dream Mountains of professional climbers.

Major Peaks Nearby Ama Dablam Mountain:

There are dozens of high mountains surrounding Ama Dablam, if not dozens then should be Hundreds. Some of them are:

– Nuptse Mountain: 7861m

– Imja Tse Peak: 6189m

– Lhotse Mountain: 8516m

– Pumori Mountain: 7161m

– Cho Oyu Mountain: 8188m

– Mera peak: 6476m

– Kyajo Ri Peak: 6189m

– Taboche Peak: 6542m

– Mt. Thamserku: 6623m

– Kangtega Mountain: 6782m

– Cholatse Peak: 6440m

– Lobuche Peak (6119m)

– Baruntse Mountain: 7129m

– Kusum Kangaru Mountain: 6367m

– Mt. Everest: 8848.86m

Climate & Geography of Ama Dablam Region:

The climate in this region can be divided into 6 categories, from Tropical to Trans-Himalayan high Pastures:

i.) Tropical: Below 1000m

ii.) Sub-tropical: 1000-2000m

iii.) Temperate Zone: 2000-3000m

iv.) Alpine Zone: 4000-5000m

v.) Meadows and Arctic Zone: above 5000m

People in Ama Dablam Region:

The majority of people are Sherpa people in this region. However, in the lower parts of the Khumbu region, you may see some other ethnic groups of people. Sherpa people are famous for their bravery and strongness in the high Himalayas. Most of the High Ascents world records are on their names. They are also nicknamed Everest Climbers.

Flora & Fauna in Khumbu Region (Ama Dablam Expedition Area):

There are several highly endangered species of animals, including Snow Leopards, Red Pandas, and several mammals eg. Lynx, Asian Black Bear, Grey Wolf, Dhole, Assam Macaque, Himalayan musk deer, Blue Sheep, Himalayan Tahr, Mainland Serow, Himalayan Goral, Wooly Hare, Horseshoe bat, Himalayan mouse-hare, black lip pika, etc. There are over 110 species of birds found in this area, 33 different types of mammals, 11 species of butterflies, 3 kinds of reptiles. Hunting is banned here. Some of the birds you can spot in this area: Golden Eagle, Eurasian, Griffon, Himalayan Griffon, Blood, Impeyan, Kalij, Koklass, Pheasants, Himalayan snow cooks, crimson horned pheasant, etc. Rhododendron & Himalayan Blue pine can be seen covering the forest.

Trekking Routes in Khumbu Region (Ama Dablam Area):

There are varieties of Trekking Route options in this region, eg. :

i.) Everest Panorama Trek

ii.) Three Passes Everest Trek

iii.) Everest Base Camp Trek

iv.) Gokyo Trek

v.) Chola Pass Trek

vi.) Amphu Lapcha Pass Trek, etc.

Risk Factors:

– Sheer Steep

– Avalanche & Icefall

– Cold

– Strong wind

Equipment/ Gears for Ama Dablam Expedition:

ICE AXE (A GENERAL MOUNTAINEERING ICE AXE):

The size of Ice axe according to the person’s height:

Up to Height 5 ft 2” : 50cm ice axe

Height 5ft 3” to 5ft 5” : 55cm ice axe

Height 5ft 6” to 5ft 9” : 60cm ice axe

Height 5ft 10” to 6ft : 65cm ice axe

Height 6ft plus: 70cm ice axe

CRAMPONS:

We recommend Modern steel 12-point Crampons with anti-balling plates. we don’t recommend 10-point aluminum single-piece rigid crampons.

ACCESSORY CORD: 40ft of 6mm (to be used for Prussiking and climbing rigging)

CARABINER SYSTEM:

2 Large oval wire gate carabiners

2 Smaller wire gate Carabiners

1 Large pear-shaped locking screwgate Carabiner

1 Large locking Carabiner (can be auto-locking)

ALPINE CLIMBING HARNESS:

– must fit all of your clothing

– should have adjustable leg loops and waist belt

– can separate at the legs and with the belay loop

– we don’t recommend the “doubling back” feature at your waist

BELAY DEVICE:

– We recommend a modern tube-style belay device

– We don’t recommend super-specialized belay devices (super-specialized belay device doesn’t accept a wide variety of rope diameters)

– we suggest Black diamond Guide ATC or Petzl Reverso

TREKKING POLES: We recommend collapsible Trekking/ Skiing poles with snow baskets and three-section varieties.

ASCENDER: According to your dominant hand- left or right. Must be of good quality.

CLOTHING FOR AMA DABLAM (6812m) CLIMB:

BASELAYERS TOPS & BOTTOMS:

– 2-3 Lightweight base layer Pants ( non-cotton fabrics or merino wool or polyester)

– 2-3 Long Sleeve shirts

– A long sleeve sun shirt ( Light-colored, hooded, and made of merino wool or polyester)

TREKKING PANTS: We recommend 1-2 lightweight nylon or synthetic fabrics trekking pants. Simple one fine

SOFTSHELL PANTS: we recommend stretchy, comfortable, and non-insulated that should fit comfortably with or without your baselayer bottoms.

HARDSHELL PANTS: We recommend non-insulated, fully waterproof shell pants that must fit comfortably over baselayer bottoms and softshell pants. Full-length separating side zipper recommended.

SOFTSHELL JACKET: we recommend breathable but wind and weather-resistant hooded jackets. The jacket must fit well over mid layer top and baselayer top

MIDLAYER TOP: We recommend a midweight or lightweight, form-fitting grid fleeces layer for use over a baselayer. Hooded is recommended and fleece generally provides a warmth-to-weight ratio. So, it’s good.

HARDSHELL JACKET: We recommend a non-insulated, fully waterproof shell jacket. Durable three-layer fabric with a hood and must fit comfortably over your baselayer. mid-layer, softshell, and lightweight insulating layer as well. We recommend a helmet-compatible hood

INSULATED HOODED JACKET: we recommend light down or synthetic hooded (Synthetic insulation does retain warmth when wet whereas down feathers are more comfortable for packing and light-weighted)

INSULATED DOWN PARKA: We recommend heavily insulated with high-quality down fill with a weight between 1.5 to 2.5 ponds and with hood.

EXPEDITION DOWN PARKA: We recommend this down parka must be in excellent condition and fully baffled. Nixon Down Wash gives maximum loft to the down parka, so we recommend checking whether it is recently cleaned up.

EXPEDITION DOWN PANTS: we recommend heavily insulated down pants comfortably fitting over all other inner layers. Thus down pants must be weatherproof.

DOWN SUIT: This down suit is optional to Down Parka & Down Pants. You can have either Down Parka plus Down Pants or Down Suit.

INSULATED SYNTHETIC PANTS: We recommend synthetic insulated pants with full-length separating side zips. We don’t recommend ski pants.

LIGHTWEIGHT LINER GLOVES: We recommend lightweight woolen or synthetic liner gloves with a comfortable fit and lighter colors that absorb less sunlight and offer UV protection.

INSULATED SHELL GLOVES: we recommend a pair of warm shell gloves with a durable leather palm.

EXPEDITION MITTENS: We highly recommend expedition-rated mittens with an insulated removable liner and the warmest model available.

HEADWEAR FOR AMA DABLAM (6812m) CLIMBING:

CLIMBING HELMET: we recommend a lightweight climbing-specific helmet that must comfortably fit over your hat or balaclava and the headlamp must be able to strap securely to the outside rim of the helmet.

BUFF: we recommend a good quality UV Buff which can be used for a multitude of purposes.

SUN HAT: We recommend baseball caps or sombrero-style sun hats.

BALACLAVA SYSTEM: We recommend one heavyweight and one lightweight which can be comfortably layered together

WOOLEN SKI HAT: We recommend no-cotton wool or synthetic hat which covers ears comfortably

FACEMASK: we recommend neoprene models

GLACIER GLASSES: We recommend high-quality glacier glass with full coverage of eyes and across the nose.

SKI GOGGLES: We recommend high-quality goggles for sun and wind protection at higher altitudes with no more than 30% VLT (Visible Light Transmission). And if possible with photochromic models which is ideal for light changing conditions.

NOSE GUARD: We recommend bringing a nose guard for better protection of your nose while being at a high altitude.

HEADLAMP: We recommend an LED outdoor headlamp of 200-300 lumens of output. Please add some spare batteries. And it’s recommended to choose with weather-resistant models

DOWN SLEEPING BAG (-20 degree Fahrenheit ): We highly recommend a down-filled sleeping bag of good quality.

DOWN SLEEPING BAG (-40 degree Fahrenheit): we highly recommend a down-filled sleeping bag of a good quality

70 LITER CLIMBING PACK: We recommend Light and Simple with crampon and ice axe attachment points.

30-45 LITER TREKKING PACK: We recommend with an internal frame, Light and simple Pack

FOAM PAD: We recommend as per your body length

INFLATABLE SLEEPING PAD: We recommend a full-length sleeping pad. And please bring along the valve repair & body patch kits.

SPOON: We suggest a longer spoon stem which can be helpful for eating while wearing gloves and it’s better made of durable hard plastic or anodized metal

MUG: We recommend 12 to 20 OZ capacity with insulated outdoor-style having a removable lid and spill-resistant

POCKET KNIFE: Should be medium-sized, Simple, and light

PEE BOTTLE: 1L – 1.5 Liter either collapsible or hard-sided gene model

BOWL: We recommend a two-cup capacity packable bowl with a lid like a Tupperware

PEE FUNNEL FOR WOMEN: We recommend practicing it before the expedition starts

WATER BOTTLE PARKAS: We recommend bringing two fully insulated water bottle parkas with a zipper opening

WATER BOTTLE: We recommend you bring two water bottles with a wide mouth made of BPA-free plastic (Co-polyester) with a capacity of 1-1.5 liter each. We don’t recommend water bags or bladder bags which have a tendency to freeze at a higher elevation.

THERMOS: We recommend vacuum-insulated thermos with wide-mouthed and with a capacity of 1 liter

TRASH COMPACTOR BAGS: We recommend three plastic garbage bags or a reusable waterproof pack liner to use as waterproof packsack liners

TOILETRY BAG: To keep tissue paper, toothbrush/paste, wet wipes, shampoo, soap, etc. For females, it is recommended to prepare enough numbers of feminine hygienic products.

WATER PURIFIER: Steri-pen or Aquamira drops. Four to six liters of water every day for personal consumption.

SUNSCREEN: We recommend four to five ounces of 5 plus SPF sunscreen. Don’t forget to check the manufacturing date because the SPF effectiveness fades away over a time duration.

LIPSCREEN: At least 30 plus SPF lip screen with the newest manufacturing date.

PERSONAL FIRST-AID KITS (small one): With painkillers (Tylenol, Ibuprofen), First-aid tape, moleskin, antiseptic wipes, Pepto Bismol, Cipro (500mg), Metronidazole, Diamox, Z-pack, etc.

PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION: We highly recommend bringing Personal Prescriptions along with you.

Furthermore, we suggest you bring Hand Sanitizer, Face mask, Hand & Toe warmer, Power bank or Solar charger, extra batteries, etc.

Travel clothes while in the city

OPTIONAL: Snacks, Dry fruits, a journal, a tablet, earphones, books, etc.

Best Time To Climb Mount Ama Dablam (6812m)

Spring Season (March-April-May) & Autumn Season (September- October- November). In these two seasons, the Climbing window opens up. In these months nature awakens making the lower parts greenery with beautiful waterfalls. At this time the weather is mostly clear with blue sky and not so cold with the least snowfall.

Spring Season: March- April- May
Autumn Season: Sept-Oct- November

How Long Does It Take To Climb Ama Dablam Mountain (6812m)? :

Well, climbing a high mountain is a long and gradual process, and it may vary on weather conditions and physical strength. And Mt. Ama Dablam is not an exception. In general, it takes around 2 weeks from Arrival to fully acclimatize and get used to cold weather, harsh environments and be familiar with the mountain you are going to the summit. And a few days to the summit and a few days coming back. So, in total it takes between 23days to 28 days for the whole Expedition. In our itinerary we keep it 27days.

Why Should “Apex Nepal Treks” Be Chosen For Ama Dablam Expedition?

We are a group of Sherpa Climbers who have long experience of Climbing the High Mountains. We have successfully climbed several high mountains including Mt. Everest (8848.86m), Mt. Manaslu (8163m), Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167m), Mt. Ama Dablam (6812m), Mt. Cho Oyu (8188m), Mt. Kanchenjunga (8586m), Mt. Lhotse (8516m), Mt. Annapurna (8091m), Mt. Makalu (8485m), Mt. K2 (8611m), etc. We have world-recorded Sherpa climbers. And we are good at taking care of our clients with safety concerns and helping them to reach the summit with lesser difficulties. We provide quality services along with varieties of food items. We only use branded equipment for climbing purposes, because your safety is our concern. The success of any expedition depends largely on a carefully planned itinerary, experienced Leaders & Sherpas who are kind as well as helpful, Quality food, and adequate training plus instructions. Trust us, we are excellent in these ingredients.

And we “Apex Nepal Team” care about the environment. Our activities are less impacting the environment and we also suggest all our clients not to harm our precious and fragile environment. We respect nature, so every time before climbing, we worship the nature god for forgiveness and make our expedition successful. We also support sustainable tourism and support through a foundation called “Foundation Apex Nepal” which supports the underprivileged communities and runs programs related to environmental protection.

And after all, we value your hard-earned money.

Best Time To Climb Mount Ama Dablam (6812m):

- Spring Season: March- April- May
- Autumn Season: Sept-Oct- November

Trip Highlights

Ama Dablam (6812m) Highlights

Ø Several high mountains on surrounding, mostly over 6000 meters

Ø Mind blowing views from the top, 360 degree mountain view from the summit of Ama Dablam Mountain

Ø Nicknamed as “Matterhorn of Asia”

Ø Culturally and geographically rich region. Sherpa people are religiously and culturally rich people living in Khumbu region.

Ø Easy access from Kathmandu

At a Glance

Ø Technically difficult mountain

Ø Height 6812m above the sea level

Ø Location: Khumbu region of Nepal

Ø Himalayan Range: Mahalangur Himalayan Range of Province no. 1

Ø Eastnorth Kathmandu and Southeast of Mt. Everest

Ø Latitude: 27.51.40 N

Ø Altitude: 86.51.41 E

Day to Day Itinerary

Mount Ama Dablam (6812m) Expedition Itinerary:

Day01: Arrival in Nepal, Kathmandu,

Day02: Gear & Trip Preparation

Day03: Gear & Trip Preparation

Day04: Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding (2610m), 3- 3.5hrs trek

Day05: Trek to Namche (3440m), 6-7hrs trek

Day06: Acclimatization Day. Day hike to Khumbu village or Everets Hotel (3860m)

Day07: Trek to Tengboche (3867m), 5-6 hrs trek

Day08: Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4600m), 6-7hrs trek

Day09: Rest Day in Ama Dablam Base Camp (4600m)

Day10: Training Day at Ama Dablam Base Camp

Day11: Day trip from Ama Dablam Base Camp to higher elevation (5800m)

Day12: Gear Preparation & Acclimatization

Day 13: Base Camp to Camp I 5900m

Day14: Rotation: Camp I to Camp II (6100m)- return to Base Camp (4600m)

Day15: Acclimatization, Contingency & Final Summit push preparation

Day16: Base Camp to Camp I (5900m)

Day17: Camp I to Camp II (6100m)

Day18: CampII to Camp III(6400m)

Day19: AMA DABLAM SUMMIT DAY! Camp III to Ama Dablam Summit 6812m – return camp II

Day20: Camp II to Base Camp (4600m)

Day21: Packing Day

Day22: Ama Dablam Base Camp to Namche

Day23: Namche to Lukla

Day24: Lukla- Fly to Kathmandu

Day25-26: Spare days in Kathmandu (just in case if we need more time in the mountain)- Rest or Sightseeing in Kathmandu

Day27: Departure

Note:- Please note that the Rotation & Acclimatization process may differ according to the weather conditions and climbers’ adaptation to the altitude.

What's Included

All Airport Transfers
Hotel in Kathmandu- 3Star hotel
Climbing Permits, Trekking Permits & All relevant Documentation
Government Royalty fees of Ama Dablam Mountain
Satellite Communication System at Base Camp (Nominal Charges may apply for extra use)
Sherpa Climber and all his Expenses
Required number of Oxygen bottles with mask and regulator
Base camp manager & Sirdar (all their expenses)
Radio Set for communication between camps
All meals during the trekking and Expedition Period
Personal Tents at Base Camps
High Tents, Kitchen Tent, Dining Tent, Toilet Tent, Store tent, Cooking Utensils, and all required utensils & gears
Staff wages, allowances, etc.
All Staff Insurance
Liaison Officer and all his Expenses
National Park/ Conservation Area fee
Climbing Equipment besides mentioned to Prepare
Porters/ Yaks to carry Climbing equipment (generally 30kg of one climber)
Waterproof duffel bags
All Government & Local Taxes, etc.

COST DOESN’T INCLUDE:

International Flight Tickets
Meals in Kathmandu (Hotels are with Breakfast)
Nepal Visa Fee
Personal Clothing and Equipment
Personal Insurance
Summit Bonus
Personal Expenses
Gratuities for staff, etc.

Accommodations

3 Star Hotel in Kathmandu
Lodge during the hike to Ama Dablam Base Camp
Tented Camp during the Expedition Period

Meals

All Meals During the Expedition Period
Breakfast in Kathmandu

Team Composition

From 1 Pax to 12 Pax in a group

Physical Condition & Experience Requirements

Should have technical knowledge of climbing
Should have experience of climbing some peaks, at least 5500m or higher mountains
Should have a good physical fitness
Good health
Dream & Commitmen

Best Time to Travel

Best Time To Climb Mount Ama Dablam (6812m)Spring Season (March-April-May) & Autumn Season (September- October- November). In these two seasons, the Climbing window opens up. In these months nature awakens making the lower parts greenery with beautiful waterfalls. At this time the weather is mostly clear with blue sky and not so cold with the least snowfall.
- Spring Season: March- April- May
- Autumn Season: Sept-Oct- November